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Walker Bag

See Sunny Chandonais walker bag here.
See Maeva’s Walker Bag here
See Lisa’s Walker Bag here

Finished size of the walker bag is 12 X 17 inches.

Use inch seams unless otherwise noted

Fabric selection

Heavier densely woven fabrics work best for this project and will last longer. I have used heavy cotton twill, poly/cotton blends, and upholstery fabrics. The fabric used in the bag shown here was a medium weight blend. I doubled the fabric for more stability. You can also add a  fusible interfacing for additional support.

 

Cut two (2) rectangles 18 X 14 inches for the front and back.

Cut two (2) rectangles 18 X 9 inches for the front and back pockets.

Cut four (4) rectangles 10 X 6 inches for the button tabs.

Finishing off the top edge of the front, back, and 2 pockets

Serger method: Serge the edges trimming off a inch as you serge.

Fold down 1 - inches. Press. Sew it down with a straight stitch on top of the serged stitching.

Non Serger method: If you do not have a serger, fold down inch. Press. Fold down 1- inches. Press. Sew along the edge of the fold with a straight stitch.

Pockets

Lay one pocket on the front and the other one on the back aligning them with the bottom edge. Pin in place. See photo below.

Mark a center line on one pocket. This one will have 2 openings. Mark the other pocket 2- inches on either side of the center - this one will have three (3) openings.

Sew from the bottom to the top edge of each pocket following along the drawn line. Once at the top, stop with the needle down in the fabric. Turn the fabric and stitch 2-3 stitches across the top on each side of the line. Now sew back down to the bottom for reinforcement.

You won’t believe all the stuff folks put in their walker bags. VBG

Button Tabs

Fold the 10 X 6 rectangles in half  with right sides together.

Sew along the long side and across one end.

Turn and press.

You will need to serge or zig-zag finish the raw ends of two of these.

See the photo below as a guide. The button tabs are outlined in a narrow black line.
 

Using the 2 tabs with both ends finished, place the serged/zig-zagged finished end two inches in from the side and one inch down from the top edge of the back. This should make a finished eight-inch flap. Be sure they are the same length or the bag will hang crooked on the walker.

Sew them in a rectangle followed by an X across as shown in heavy black lines on the photo below.

Place the raw edge of the other two tabs, two inches up from the bottom edge of the back, and sew them on as shown by the thick black lines in the photo below.

Final Assembly

Place the front on top of the back with right sides together. Sew the 2 sides and the bottom at least twice for reinforcement. Zig-zag or serge finish the edges.

Sew buttonholes at least inch from the ends of each of the tabs.

Sew the buttons on the front as shown in black in the photo below. Add two (2) small rectangles of stabilizer to the back of each button for added support when you sew them on.

See photo at the top of this page for how to apply it to the walker.

That should do it!

Caution - Be sure to caution the recipient of your walker bag against having heavy objects in the bag or keeping alot of stuff in the bag all the time. It makes the front of the walker heavy and less stable when the front of it is weighted down. It can tip over.
It also requires more energy to use a heavy walker.

Laura Waterfield
Laura’s Sewing Studio
www.LaurasSewingStudio.com
Copyright 2002-2016

Terms for Re-use and Redistribution

If you would like to share these instructions with your friends, please be fair and send them to this website to read it.

If you are a teacher or retailer and would like to use the information contained here in your classes please distribute the contents in its entirety giving full credit to Laura at Laura’s Sewing Studio

 

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COPYRIGHT STATEMENT

SOFTWARE LICENSING AGREEMENT

Laura's Sewing Studio embroidery designs are for personal use. Designs and copyrighted images are intended for private, non-commercial use. Laura's Sewing Studio entitles the purchaser only to make projects for personal use. The embroidery designs are the copyrighted property of Laura M. Waterfield. No design, documentation, or associated graphic distributed as part of this collection may be shared, re-sold individually, re-packaged, or used in any commercial endeavor or instructional presentation without the written consent of Laura's Sewing Studio. Any modifications of these embroidery designs are for the personal non-commercial use of the purchaser only and may not be sold or distributed under this licensing agreement.

If your friends want these designs, please send them to this website. .Both your integrity and patronage allow us to continue with new product development, while keeping down cost and maintaining quality support.

Thank you for your patronage and happy sewing.

Laura Waterfield

Copyright Laura M. Waterfield 2002-2016

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Bright White LED Lights
for your sewing/embroidery/quilting machine

Find the work light on your sewing machine no longer up to the task? Add this self-adhesive, bright-white LED light strip to the underside of your machine's arm and you are back in business.

You can even get one with a white control dongle.

Like Christmas Lights
For Sewing Machines

 

 

Embroidery Essentials

Top Stitch Needles

 

Ball Point Needles

For Sewing Knits

 

3.5 Inch Curved Scissors

Makes quick work of in-the-hoop fabric trimming.

 

Thread Storage

...because, like fabric, one can never have enough thread...or places to keep it.

 

And speaking of threads...

a place to start, unless you need even more.

Sorry, thread rack is separate.

 

Thread Rack(s)

For color staging and quicker thread changes.

 

12 Inch Wide Vilene

A Hardanger Machine Embroidery Must Have

 

Not Sure Where to Start?